How To Frame Stained Glass Panels using Zinc Came

Intermediate / Advanced

How To:

Frame Stained Glass Panels using Zinc Came

James (Red) Veilleux

Came is a grooved strip of metal used between and around glass panels. The two most common metals used to manufacture came are lead and zinc. Lead is flexible and more useful for curved pieces, while zinc is rigid and most often used as a stable frame.

Zinc came comes in two types; these instructions refer to the sturdier type with an inner channel and outer edge. (The other type, which we call U-came, is shaped more like traditional U-lead.) The wider your zinc came, the stronger it will be.

This photo shows three pieces of zinc came: The two on the left are the type we are using for this tutorial. See all the sizes we offer HERE.

Materials & Tools Needed:

1. Your Stained Glass Panel

2. Your choice of Zinc Came

3. Your choice of Hangers

4. Ceiling Tile or equivalent heat resistant surface

5. Push Pins (Straight Edges – Optional)

6. Sharpie

7. Ruler / Measuring Tool

8. Fine toothed Hack Saw or Came Saw (Miter Box – Optional)

9. Metal File

10. Soldering Iron, Stand and Damp Sponge

11. 60/40 Solder

12. Flux and Flux Brush

(Masking or Electrical Tape - Optional)

Measuring and Cutting the Came

Accuracy is important!

Cut a short piece (1” to 2”) of your came to use as an angle-marking gauge. Keep it for future use; its function is simply to help you measure correctly on your actual pieces. Lay another piece of came over it (both pieces are laying on their side as though they were on a finished piece!) and mark the width of the full piece (both sides) onto the gauge came.
Draw a diagonal from corner to corner of these marks. This will give you a 45° line to cut on.
	Measuring Came for your Finished Pieces
Option #1: Measure a side of your panel. Take that measurement and add the width measure of the came that you are using. The combined measurement will be the correct length of that side from tip to tip of the 45° end-cuts.	For example: my panel is 12" long, and I am using 1/4" zinc came. I will cut my came 12 1/4" long. Use your gauge piece to trace the 45° angle onto your full piece. Remember that the outer edge of the zinc should always be longer than the inner channel.
Option #2: Place a length of came along one edge of your panel. Place the marking gauge next to that, making a sandwich. The end of the inner channel should line up with the edge of the glass panel.
Once lined up, simply use a marker or scratch a line onto your full piece of zinc, using the gauge piece to "trace" and get the correct angle.
	Cutting the Came
If you have a miter box: For option #1: Arrange your piece of zinc in the miter box such that your measured mark is at the farthest end of the 45° cut. The outer edge of the zinc should be longer than the inner channel. Option #2: Line up your drawn 45° line with the grooves the saw will follow.
Place the blade of your saw over the cut line and saw straight down. Let the saw blade do the work, do not force the cut. Repeat all these steps for all sides of your panel.
Dress each cut with a file to remove any burrs and to fine tune the angle that you cut. (You can also do this later to make allowances for hangers.)
Once your pieces are cut, their inner channels should line up with the edges of your panel, and their outer (longer) edges will extend beyond the edges of the panel slightly.

Handy Hangers

Plan ahead for what type of hanger you will use!

We recommend Handy Hangers, which require a tiny modification to the top piece of zinc came.

See the three photos that show a small notch filed off the top piece.

When dry-fit together, the Handy Hanger will slide down into the side piece of zinc through that notch (note that it is shown flat in the second picture, and is then rotated sideways in the third photo to fit into the side.)

Soldering the Zinc Came Frame

NOTE: Soldering Zinc requires more heat than copper foil.

Dry fit the sides to your stained glass panel and secure in place with pins. (Popsicle Sticks can be used as shims under the glass, if tipping is noticed.) NOTE: Tape can be used to control/contain the solder. If used, the tape must be stuck to the zinc prior to the flux application.
Side 1: Solder each edge joint (all that are touching the side of the zinc came), working all the way around the 4 sides until all of the intersecting joints are soldered to the zinc came. The flat chisel edge of the soldering iron should be held against the came edge and on top of the intersecting solder line. Your goal is to finish the intersecting solder line and just bring the solder up onto the zinc to attach. NOTE: Flux should be applied 1 joint at a time for best results. NOTE: As the soldering iron edge heats the came, you should notice the molten solder drawn against and under the came.
Tin the hangers and place them into the channels. They will be soldered in place at the same time as the corners are done.
Using the chisel edge of the soldering iron, apply a small amount of solder directly over the corner seam. Keep applying small amounts of solder in this manner until you see that it has penetrated the seam and filled the void inside that connection.
Side 2: Repeat the same process as for Side 1.

Finishing:

Clean and dry the panel thoroughly as you would any other stained glass panel.
Fine steel wool can be used on the zinc came to brighten it or remove oxidation caused by the flux. Be sure to clean the project again to wipe away any small filaments from the steel wool!
If you want to patina your panel, your best results will be achieved by using JAX Pewter Black. NOTE: It can be difficult to get a "perfect" color match between the lead solder and the zinc frame. Many people opt to paint their
Polish/Wax and hang!