A Brief History of the Art
Stained glass art dates back over a thousand years, emerging prominently in the medieval period when artisans began crafting colorful windows for Gothic cathedrals across Europe. Its origins can be traced to early Christian churches of the 4th and 5th centuries, where small pieces of colored glass were set in stone frameworks. By the 12th century, advancements allowed artisans to paint details onto glass, creating iconic windows in churches like Chartres and Canterbury that depicted biblical scenes for an illiterate population. The art flourished into the Renaissance but declined with the Reformation and Enlightenment, as religious themes waned. A revival in the 19th century, led by artists like William Morris and John La Farge, brought stained glass back to secular and sacred architecture alike, making it a celebrated form that continues to evolve today.
Below you'll find links to tools and supplies to get you started, as well as some frequently asked questions.
These kits contain everything you need to get started and then some!
Beginner's Favorite Stained Glass Kit
Beginner's Favorite Deluxe Stained Glass Kit
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- is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Frequently Asked Stained Glass Questions
What do I actually need to make something?
What do I actually need to make something?
Below you'll find a list of everything that we recommend for purchase or can borrow in the Beginner/Intermediate Stained Glass class.
- Glass
- Contact Paper
- Permanent Marker
- Aluminum Pushpins
- Metal Ring for hanging
- Copper Foil
- Solder
- Flux
- Flux Brush
- Glass Cutter
- Running Pliers
- Grozing Pliers
- Soldering Iron
- Foil Burnisher
- Patina
What can "run out" for supplies?
What can "run out" for supplies?
While many of your tools and equipment will last you for years, some components will be "used up." These include, but are not limited to
- Flux
- Copper Foil
- Patina
- Solder
- Glass
Does the COE(Coefficient of Expansion) matter for stained glass?
Does the COE(Coefficient of Expansion) matter for stained glass?
The COE only matters when it comes to glass being hot, so fusing and flameworking are the artforms to keep an eye out for.
I don't want to use anything with lead, is there an alternative?
I don't want to use anything with lead, is there an alternative?
Yes, you do have another option. We carry Amerway's lead free solder, as well as many zinc came options should you want to frame your work.
Why is my solder not sticking to my foil?
Why is my solder not sticking to my foil?
Flux must be applied to the foil prior to solder. It will not work if flux is not properly on the foil. Many fluxes are liquid, so they may "fall" off or dry on the foil. This may be why it is not sticking.
Why is my solder not flowing smoothly?
Why is my solder not flowing smoothly?
Your soldering iron is likely to cold. Try increasing the temperature.
What are the steps to the Tiffany method?
What are the steps to the Tiffany method?
"Tiffany"Copper Foil Method
1. Select a Pattern and Your choice of Glass for this Project.
2. You will need to have 2 copies of your Project Pattern.
3. Number the pieces and mark the feature or texture direction on both copies of your chosen Pattern.
4. Get a Work Surface (Ceiling Tile) that will fit your selected pattern.
5. Place 1 copy of your selected pattern onto your work surface leaving space on all sides. Cut a piece of clear contact paper large enough to overlap the pattern, remove the backing and place over the pattern, securing it to the work surface.
6. Use scissors to cut out the Pattern pieces from the other copy of your Pattern.
7. Use a Sharpie / Marker to trace the Pattern pieces onto your selected glass.
8. Get a Grid "cutting surface". This surface will be used to support and cut your glass on.
9. Use a Glass Cutter to Score the shapes that you traced on your glass. Touch the cutter wheel into the oil cup before cutting. Try to stay as close as possible to the inside of the lines that you traced.
10. Use Running pliers to free the glass pattern pieces that have been scored, from the larger piece of glass.
11. Use Grozing Pliers to nibble off the scrap glass in any areas where the Running Plierscould not be used (too close to the edge).
12. Place the cut pieces on your work surface pattern. This will reveal the areas that might need attention.
13. Use the Glass Grinder to smooth and fine tune the glass pieces, using the work surface copy as reference. and then return them to the Work Surface copy of your Pattern to
14. Once the piece has been fine-tuned, use Push Pins to secure it to the Pattern on the Work Surface. This will aid in the fitting of the next piece / pieces.
15. Use Hot Water to rinse off the grinder dust from the glass pieces, then dry completely.
16. Foil all of the prepared glass pieces. Start by centering the Copper Foil on the edge ofeach glass piece. Wrap the entire edge of the piece being careful to keep the glass centered on thefoil. End the wrap by overlapping the starting edge ½" + or -.
17. At this time, the foil can be torn or cut. Cutting reduces possible foil issues.
18. Using your fingers, push / fold the Foil edges down onto the sides of the glass pieces.
19. Using a Fid or Equal, Burnish the Copper Foil on all sides of each piece so that itbecomes as smooth as possible. Test by rubbing your finger at 90 degrees across theedge. You should not feel any resistance or edge.
20. Return the foiled glass pieces to the work surface pattern and secure them with PushPins.
21. Turn on the Soldering Iron and allow it to heat up to a working temperature.
22. Sparingly apply Flux to the Foil at all junctions of the glass pieces.
23. Tack Solder the Fluxed spots. This procedure will secure the pieces of this project.
24. Remove the Push Pins and flip this piece over.
25. Apply Flux to the Foiled seams of a workable sized area and proceed to Solder.
26. Try to maintain a constant / full bead of Solder on all seams, using a fluid motion. Do Not Pause.
27. Flip the Project over to its front, apply Flux to the seams then run a bead of solder on all the joints.
28. Install the hanger/s and edge reinforcement (if needed), then run a solder bead aroundthe outside edge of the project.
29. Inspect the project front, back and edge for flaws and correct, if needed.
30. Remove Flux residue with a cleaning / neutralizing solution and 0000 steel wool ifneeded.
31. Apply Polish, let dry, then buff with a soft cloth or brush to a shine.
32. Apply Patina, if desired, rinse with warm water and let dry.
33. Final Inspection. Correct any issues found.
