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Tools for Effective Soldering
How to Effectively Solder
Stained Glass
By James Veilleux
Note: Soldering Stained Glass can be a fun but sometimes frustrating process. There is a definite learning curve involved but, with time and practice, the end result will be worth the effort. In order to even begin the soldering process, you need to have the right tools to successfully create a stained glass piece.Below are the 7 essential items necessary to Effectively Solder Stained Glass
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Flux
- Sponge or Brass Wool
- Flux Applicator or Brush
- Heat Resistant Surface
- Gloves and Mask
Credit for Info:
Amerway
Canfield
Novacan
Stellar Technical Products
Researched, Interpreted and Arranged By: James A Veilleux 03/08/2023So Many Pliers!
Kiln Mold Preparation
Glue in the Kiln
- Scrape off any excess glue. Don't use cloth or tissue -- a chemical reaction between the fabric and glue could potentially cause burns or smoke.
- Soak the bonded fingers in a bath of warm, soapy water.
- Don't try forcing the fingers apart, or you'll tear the skin.
- After soaking, use dull, rounded utensil to carefully wedge the fingers apart.
- If you see no immediate success with this, drop a little acetone (found in nail polish remover) on the area. Again, try wedging the digits apart.
- Since you're dealing with an area on the face, do not use acetone.
- Using a wide coffee cup or bowl, immerse your mouth in hot water.
- You will also want to dampen the bonded skin from the inside of your mouth as much as possible.
- Once you sense a loosening of the grip, use a dull, rounded utensil to wedge your mouth open. Be careful not to force it, or you will tear the skin.
2021 IN REVIEW
- Glastar burned to the ground on October 18th. Glastar is a leading manufacturer of glass-shaping equipment, tools, accessories, and supplies. The warehouse next door exploded, and the fire quickly spread to the Glastar building. No one at Glastar was hurt, however two people were killed and two were injured in the warehouse where the fire started. We do not expect to see any Glastar products soon. Everything that was available, sold out quickly. They still have a Facebook page with no news and the website continues to state, "they will be back soon", but yet no news. The following is a link to the Bing video of the Canoga Park explosion. glastar fire - Bing video
- The Paul Wissmach Glass Co was sold. On April 1, 2021 Jason Wilburn and Annabelle Javier became the new owners. Mark Feldmeier continued to be actively involved so that is probably why it all happened, and we did not even realize. Wissmach is the second oldest manufacturer having been operating since 1904. This is their new logo:
- Kokomo seemed to have a rocky year. I was not able to get them directly, but I did get my info from a reliable source. What I heard is that their extremely interesting furnace is now not operating and has been replaced with day furnaces. This is a round furnace with a down draft which I so wish I had seen while it was still operating. Kokomo was founded in 1888, making it the oldest producer of glass in the United States. The transition caused lapses in production, and we have not been able to stock as much as we would like. One of their key personnel retired after returning from a bout with Covid. Apparently Covid took its toll at Kokomo, which also slowed down production because of employees being absent. We have been assured that all is back on track, and we will be seeing more glass!
- Oceanside also reported some difficulties in 2021. Many people were not happy that the glass is "different". Vince Moiso shared how hard it has been sourcing chemicals. They follow the "recipe", and some glass has come out different, we had some orangey reds and other differences. He also reported that we will be seeing more bubbles in the glass. Even though they do make the glass like Spectrum did, they do not have the long ribbon or glass system that Spectrum had, and the shorter run will create bubbles.
- On a positive note, Youghiogheny seems to be just smoothy flying along. After purchasing the Uroboros hand rolled sheet process from Oceanside in May of 2020 they continue to add more Uroboros glass to their already amazing lines of Youghiogheny.
- In general, we have seen unprecedented price increases. These come from increased shipping costs, raw material sourcing issues and increased labor costs. Less product at higher prices.
- We did see a new line of art glass come on the scene. Artisan Glass is an imported glass that is quite beautiful and reasonably priced. Artisan Glass (stainedglassexpress.com)
- Tools and supplies have been difficult. In addition to not having any Glastar products, we cannot get Morton products. Some that have been difficult are: spray a, score one plus, didymium glasses (clip-ons), value tools, bevel clusters, fid'l stick, some silver products (earring findings), glass pro silver protector and cleaner, Breda nippers, Hifire, Thinfire, and resin. Some products were difficult for awhile because people could not get packaging for them, like glue. Right now we are waiting on Inland Grinders.
Grinder Bits
GETTING STARTED - FUSING
- WHAT IS FUSING
- The Ramp. The rate in degrees per hour, that kiln temp will rise or fall during the segment
- The Goal Temp. The temperature the kiln will seek during each segment.
- Hold Time. the number of minutes the kiln will stay at the Goal Temp, once it is reached.
- Tack Fuse: glass is joined with little change beyond the softening or rounding of glass edges.
- Contour: The glass edges are soft and rounded, yet the project surfaces retain a degree of dimension.
- Full: Works best on two layer projects containing an even amount of glass on each layer. These will melt together completely and smooth surface.
- Slump: This is a second trip to the kiln and it is taking what you have created and put it in a mold to "slump" into the shape of the mold.
CONTROLLING YOUR SOLDERING IRON TEMPERATURE
Temperature controllers are generally separate units that the iron plugs into. They are small, easy to use and relatively inexpensive.
It operates similar to a light dimmer switch. By dialing the control to a higher or lower setting, more or less electricity is fed to the iron. This increases or decreases the iron temperature, allowing the tip temperature to be controlled.
Ceramic Heating Element Irons
A temperature control/iron combination offers you greater control and flexibility than a temperature controlled tip iron when working with different metals and solder mixes. Look for one that is at least 80 watts. Since the flow of electricity to the tip is consistent and never completely stops, encounters with cold spots are nearly eliminated.
Hakko Soldering Iron FX 601 (stainedglassexpress.com)
These irons are relatively new to the stained glass trade. They are made with highly efficient ceramic heating elements. Like a ceramic room heater, they produce a consistent temperature using less electrical wattage during operation. When initially heating and when reheating during "recovery" periods, they can draw a "burst" of power exceeding100 watts and then efficiently reduce electrical consumption, often below 60 watts, during the soldering process. The result is efficiency and economy.
A remarkable feature of ceramic heater irons is they generally reach operating temperature in less than 60 seconds. Of the three types of irons, the ceramic heater type best maintains consistent tip temperature.
Irons with Temperature Controlled Tips
These irons are supplied with an internal regulator in the tip that does not allow the iron to exceed a predetermined temperature. An example would be a 600°F tip. The iron heats to that temperature then "shuts off." When heat is required, the iron "turns on" again. Tips are available in predetermined temperatures up to 800°F. These irons are easy for beginners to use because the temperature is automatically maintained for you, however, as your skills increase, you may prefer to control the amount of heat yourself for different soldering situations. The limited amount of control may become frustrating as your soldering skills increase. With this type of iron you will likely encounter "cold spots" where the iron will not melt your solder. These cold spots occur when heat is being drawn out of the tip faster than it is being replenished. You will need an iron with a minimum of 100 watts.
The Weller 100 is one of these irons.
Stainless Steel Heater Technology
These are nice stable irons. Best to use them with a separate controller. The biggest advantage is if you drop this iron it does not have a ceramic element that is very easily going to break. These are little workhorses.
SCRAP GLASS INSPIRATION FOR EVERY MONTH!
Everyone is always asking what to do with scrap glass.
January
Make a pot melt.
This is from GrandRidge Glass
February
Make a heart. Put a magnet on the back or fuse in a ring to hang.
March
Make it tiny and use up scraps.
From Stubridge Yankee Workshop
April
Eggs, foiled or fused. Ideas are endless.
From Justin Urbantas on
Stained Glass Arts and Addicts
colibriglass.com
May
This by Lee Ann on Stained Glass Addicts. A table top. Mosaics always a good way to use scrap.
How cute is this from Anything Stained Glass
June
Start doing some fun garden stuff.
Sorry, I don't remember where I got this picture to give credit.
July
Go out to the yard sales and find an old frame to mosaic, fuse to foil.
From Glasscrafter.com
August
Imagine little strips like this hanging outside.
September
October
November
From Crafty Chica
December
FOOD SAFE ISSUES
I think I have not researched an issue and come up with less concise data ever. Here are some things I did find.
FUSING
The causes of concern when fusing are lead and cadmium. Cadmium when combined with sulfur forms Cadmium Sulfide and results in deep yellow color. If mixed with Selenium and Sulfur, it gives you bright red and orange. Adding Titanium produces yellowish-brown glass. https://www.bullseyeglass.com/is-bullseye-glass-food-safe.html At this link you can find the list of Bullseye glass that contain more than 1% lead and more than .5% of cadmium. They recommend this list be capped with clear. They also said that transparent glass leaches lead/cadmium at levels below FDA limits and less than opalescent lead/cadmium-bearing glass. So, you can decide not to cap transparent glass. I also found from Randy Wardell in his book "Everything Else", this: The official answer from the glass manufacturers is, all tested compatible glasses have been tested by the FDA for food bearing surfaces and were determined to be suitable. However, if you add other processes or compounds to the items, for example paint, stains, decals, glazes, etc. it is important to check that these items are also approved for food bearing surfaces.- Glassline pens are lead free and food safe.
- Mika powder must be capped.
- Iridized glass needs to be capped. Bullseye irid is safe if full fused.
- By spraying a coating of Fuse Master Super Spray on top - food safe.
FLAMEWORKING
Clear Boro (COE 33) is food safe. Think Pyrex. Boro colors with high metal content or fuming are not food safe. Boro is food safe if the colors with high metal contents and fuming are not the surface. The metals can cause issues in microwaves and sometimes older dishwashers that get really hot during the drying cycle. I was not able to find a list of Boro colors with high metal content. However, here is a little info on metal oxides. When glass color is made, the metal oxides are stable and "in solution," anytime you work with the glass, in any manner, you may be breaking open "the solution" and expose the metal oxides. Rods can contain: Iron Oxide, Chromium, Sulfur, Calcium, Manganese, Manganese Dioxide, Cobalt, Arsenic, Potash, copper Oxide, Nickel, Chromium, Tin Oxide, Cadmium, Titanium, Uranium, Didymium, Selenium, Copper, Gold & Silver.TRADITIONAL STAINED GLASS
In traditional stained-glass work where you solder, there are also concerns. If the product is going to be near food or next to your skin, you should use lead free solder. Or, if you are doing something like a night light for a child's room, use lead free solder. Lead toxins can be absorbed through the skin.TIDBITS OF INFORMATION
What is the difference between copper wire and tinned copper wire?
They are both copper wires. The tinned wire is a bit easier to use if you are soldering it because it already has a coating of solder on it.
https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/metals/wire/
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So many foils!
Different backing, different widths, and different thicknesses
Why does this matter? Take a look.
Can you see how the color of the backing shows through? It matters when you are using see through glass. It helps when the patina matches the backing. Like the center one is black backed. If that copper on the outside gets patinaed black it looks good. If you were doing a piece with a lot of see-through glass and you used copper back, you would be sad, disappointed and distracted by the copper peaking out at you.
https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/metals/copper_-_silver_foil/
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FUSING WITH NON-FUSIBLE GLASS
Can you do it? Yes. However, you cannot mix sheets because the coe is unknown. If you know that two pieces of glass came from the same sheet, you could fuse them together. Sometimes non fusible glass will devitrify. Probably because you don't really know what temperature to fire it at. If you coat it with Spray A that generally takes care of it. This is also good for slumping bottles. They come out clearer if you coat the up side with Spray A.
You could take two wispy pieces of glass from the same sheet and put one across the other with the wisps going in a different direction and get a nice effect.
You cut shapes from one piece and fuse to another piece if they are from the same sheet.
You could take single pieces and slump them into a vase.
Pic from Glass with a Past
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TRACKING HEAD
This is a great cutter for straight cuts. You just will not believe how much easier it is to use.
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CUTTING TUBES WITHOUT CRUSHING THEM
When cutting a tube, put a toothpick in the end where you are cutting, and it will keep you from crushing the tube.
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Have an old circle cutter you no longer use to cut glass? Use it to cut paper.
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PLIERS - WHICH END IS UP?
RUNNING PLIERS - Just cannot live without them. They are used to run a score. You just position the jaws at the end of the score line and gently squeeze. To remember which end is up, remember the saying "screw up or screw up"
https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/Glass-Tools/Hand-Tools/pliers/metal-running-pliers.html
GROZIER PLIERS
I learned this one just this week. Your pliers should look like alligator head to be the right way.
https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/Glass-Tools/Hand-Tools/pliers/grozer-breaker-pliers.html